Food Society

Being an ex-neighbour of this bar, it was bittersweet to be back in our old neighbourhood, amazed by how they transformed a run down cooking school into a lavish restaurant and bar. The dishes are designed to share with a modern Eastern European flavour, so think of warm soups, meaty dumplings and slow cooked meats; perfect for a cold Winter’s night. Much to my delight, it began to remind me of our memorable night at Borsh Vodka and Tears.

We wander through the brightly lit reception where bubbly staff greet us and our coats are taken and stored away in vintage closets. The feeling is intriguing with Euro trance beats pumping in the background, floral wallpaper, grey walls, antique pieces and persian rugs.

Beetroot & Vodka Cured Ocean Trout Blini

Pierogi w/ organic pork

Appetizers roll out, beginning with soft blinis (pancakes) topped with a ribbon of beetroot & vodka cured ocean trout, roe and dill cream; and they were absolutely amazing with multiple flavour bursts. Next up are the meaty pierogi which are another variation of the Polish dumpling, uszka, but uses a slightly different dough. They’re filled with organic pork and roasted shallots with sprinkles of salty bacon pieces, mmmmm!

Borscht w/ organic smoked ham hock 

The borscht is next companied with mini bowls to share; a Ukrainian soup mainly made of beetroot and served with organic smoked ham hock and of course, a dollop of sour cream. It tastes like a beetroot puree with strands of ham, although my Russian counterpart is less impressed of its texture.

Beef short rib 

The “substantials” on the menu are the meatier and heartier dishes. The beef short ribs braised in dark beer sit on top of a soft white polenta and are served with buttered sprouts on a wooden block. The meat is slightly overcooked but with a few spoonfuls of the sauce, it’s salvable.

Ten hour braised lamb shoulder 

Alongside the pierogi dumplings being my favourite of the night, the ten hour braised lamb shoulder is amazing. Served in a red hot ceramic dish with field mushrooms, white bean puree and fresh mint jelly; it gets many nods of satisfaction across the table.

Selsko Meso

The Selsko Meso is a Balkan style slow cooked stew filled with pork neck, red peppers, tomatoes and spices aplenty. With pork neck being more muscular, flavoursome and fattier than the shoulder, being slow cooked, it’s as tender as it can get amongst the stew of spices.

Society Baked Pashka

Sour Cherry Dumplings

Disappointingly, the desserts are not up the scratch. The Food Society’s take on the pashka, a Russian cheese dessert is a little bland and not as sweet as anticipated, despite the jam and almonds drizzled on top. As for the sour cherry dumplings that my Russian foodie was so excited about was another let down. Possible that our cravings for sweet ending tarnished our judgements, but hopefully more inventive desserts could blossom in the future.

It’s the beginnings of a great new restaurant with Euro ambience and flavour to match.

Food Society
91 Riley St
Darlinghurst, Sydney
www.foodsociety.com.au 

Porteno

My birthday week just passed, and I have wined and dined like the Queen! Dinner with girls, we explored beyond our usual circle of bars to check out Porteno – Sydney’s own little South American gem. Get transported into the 1950’s, where the waitresses rock the pin curls and the waiters have slicked back hair, suspenders and moustaches to match.

We’re welcomed in, and we kick off with some cocktails off the extensive drinks menu  – I start with the Evita, an ode to the first lady of Argentina with a mix of zubrowka vodka, peach liqueur, lychees, cucumber and a drop of fresh citrus; light and fresh. Another one that takes my fancy is the Tierra del Fuego, perfect midway with the meat – freshly muddled strawberries, honey, triple berry syrup, campari and pimms topped with blood orange and pink grapefruit.

Tira De Asado

Chanchito a La Cruz

The menu is tapas styled and very meaty – so make sure you bring along your carnivorous appetite. Amongst our entrees, my favourites of the night is definitely the meat – we share the Coorong beef short ribs and the woodfired sucking pig, absolutely drool worthy and the most melt-in-your-mouth meat I have ever had. And like what all the others say, there’s no such visit to Porteno without having the beef, pork or lamb.

Southern American Pavlova

Chocolate pudding

And being my birthday, there was no going home without some sweetness. Gathering advice from the Maitre d’, we couldn’t go past her suggestion of the Southern American pavlova with pieces of mango, dulce de leche, salted peanuts, sponge cake and crunchy sweet meringue pieces. My pick would be the chocolate pudding, with a warm oozing centre, walnuts and a subtle banana sorbet. But then again, I’m a sucker for chocolate puddings and fondants… and anything with oozing melted centres.

Great food with the staff to match.

Porteno
358 Cleveland St
Surry Hills, Sydney
www.porteno.com.au